Najac

(very historic and picturesque, good dining)

The first view of this 12th century fortemerges as you round a curve in the road. Catch it early in the morning and the fortress appears to float on the clouds. It was a stronghold of the Albigensian Heretics and later captured by the English during the Hundred Years' War. The tour is well worth it, as the guides ham it up.

Farther down the hill, tour the 13th century church that was ordered built by the Pope as a penance for supporting the heretics.

There's a public outdoor swimming pool in the camping ground by the river, enroute to the Belle Rive and train station. This is also where you'll find the Kayak / rafting / cycling centre (call 05.65.29.73.94). There used to be a horseback riding establishment on the road down to the Belle Rive, but not sure if it's still there. Drug store; grocery stores; excellent bakery — Delmur (same owners as one in Lafouillade); antique shop; miscellaneous variety shops; bank machine; small market Sunday mornings; train station.

Restaurants:

• Hotel Bellerive near train station — good, comfortable accommodation, and well-priced (many British patrons!) Telephone: 05.45.74.20 
• An excellent restaurant and hotel is L'Oustal del Barry — Telephone 05.65.29.74.32 on the square where post office is located. 
• La Salandre, rue de Barriou, Telephone 05.65.29.74.09 is very pleasant — good food and very well priced.
• Le Corbeille (south of Najac on road to Laguepie, west side of the Aveyron) but it's not always open and they don't take reservations.
• There's another excellent restaurant at the Village de Vacance at Mergieux near Najac — open on weekends only. Check at the tourist information centre in Najac for name, telephone number and directions.